I drove down to NJ this past weekend to surf and maybe shoot some photos, maybe just surf. The waves were good. I’ve learned to keep my expectations pretty low, so I was surprised at how fun the surf was and reminded of just how fickle it can be. Also, the crowds out in the water were really great, really chill, super nice, and I even had a peak to myself at one point for an hour or two. The waves were 5-6 ft with a random 7 ft face thrown in, and I got worked. A summer spent surfing 2 foot beach break does not prepare you for the fall in any way. Every September I am reminded of how much faster, stronger, and better east coast surf can be. Its like taking the training wheels off again, every year, and going 50 mph when you’re used to going 5.
Hopefully this winter won’t get locked down or skunked. I am really looking forward to a good season of cold waves.