More driving, more hiking = more quiet.
Its that time of year when the Big Swells fill the popular Surfline web cam breaks with local and non-local Frothers. Everything is hyped up and by the time the swell finally arrives, there is fever pitch in the air. On my drive to the beach, its as if every other car has a board on the roof. 4-6ft and hollow? Just throw a foamie on the roof and drive on down. Pretty crazy.
I’ve seen a few snapped leashes and plenty of folks who can’t duck dive try to paddle out into 7ft beach break, when the take off spot is already crowded. Blah blah blah.
When the surf is big and closing out these spots, other spots light up.
Thats really the secret.
You have to know where to look. The locals here were pretty chill. Mostly concerned with fishing and fighting off rival gulls.
I caught some waves, and I tried not to think about sharks.